Hi dear readers !
Today I’ll share with you the second part of my Milanese SS 2016 favorites 🙂
I’d like to begin with the Jil Sander show. Creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga shows us his skills with this minimalist summer collection.
I really concur with his vision for next season. He chooses a subtle masculin/feminin style and takes it to the next level. All the jackets have something out of the ordinary. As you can see on the first one for instance, you notice the sleeves are cut at the seam on the shoulders, leaving a bit of skin bare in a delicate way. The others have a pleat around the elbow. It adds a volume on this area, thus impacting the whole composition. I think it is beautifully crafted, the result is amazing and definitely chic, not awkward at all. I’d love to have a closer look at this detail. Most of these jackets are belted by a simple leather tube tied around the waist. They are associated with classical trousers, letting the ankles free. This lenght is feminine and classy. The other garments, dresses or skirts, fall over the knees.
Every model wears a hat, as an integral part of the silhouette. It completes it and fits the color scheme, navy or black for dark outfits and natural for lighter clothes. Monochromy prevails : you won’t find audacious color mixes, but beige and blue camaïeux. That yellow coat is a nice pop of color in the collection, its clean lines make it easily wearable still. I want to say a word about the shoes too, because … I adore. I think there are small block heels on the first pair, but the last one for instance is flat obviously. They are very simple, like the outfits, and sometimes adorned with a big buckle on the instep. Square toes usually sounds scary for me, but here I must admit it is good-looking. Paglialunga’s work and my tastes will get along very well I think …
The next collection I want to share with you is Agnona‘s. I didn’t know it at all. It seems the history of the house is a bit complicated. Francesco Ilorini founded his brand 1953. Specialized in nobles fibres, it has lent its savoir-faire to big names like Saint-Laurent, Dior and Valentino, then began its own collections. The Zegna group bought Agnona and in 2013 Stefano Pilati took the head of creation. Unfortunately he left a couple of months ago, so we cannot really tell who directed this presentation.
I think it is a nice surprise. The conditions to create may not be perfect, but the result is there : a collection looking very sophisticated and corresponding to the ideal of Italian fashion. The shades are soft and very natural, highlighting the material itself, with white, light blue and tan. The beige poncho refers to the craftsmanship of the house, knitwear. Its clean design will look great with everything, that’s a versatile garment. The leather pieces seem of excellent quality. The accessories are very appealing, especially the belt and purse on the third image. The suede wrap dress is beautiful, I love the slit bottom and the bow placed on the side. The sleeveless blazer is another key-piece of the presentation and is paired with a long pleated skirt. The whole is all about playing with lenghts, verticality. The dress over trousers trend is still in, and the longer the better : in the third and fifth pictures, the dress almost reaches the ankles and the hem hides the heels. A tropical print is always good for a summery clothes, as we can see with this deep forest green and hints of blue and brown. This presentation is full of timeless pieces with an original twist, making them super modern and classy. I can’t wait to see where it is heading 🙂
The highly anticipated Marni show ended an hour ago. I was really excited to watch the collection because this is a house I love dearly. Eagerness turned into awe as I saw the runway pictures.
Marni delivers with its well-known formula : once again we talk about very long garments with tropical prints and bold colors, cut-outs and daring layering. Indeed it goes beyond the basic dress-over-trousers thing. For instance we count three tops in some looks, and we have a little pinafore-like dress worn on a longer one in the first. The stylists have decided to add a small top over a leather coat, making the outfit super original. This amazing mastery of layering and composition is a great point. Figures grow hardly readable behind this accumulation of fabrics. It may not seem flattering, but I think in order to wear this, attitude is the key, not body shape. Clothes shine and catch the attention, but they won’t steal it from you if you are confident enough to rock them 🙂 .
Color-blocking is another main element of the collection. I really like navy blue with orange and yellow, it is a pretty combination to me. Darker shades were used too, like green and brown. I am a fan of the seventh outfit where they are mixed, it looks awesome. I also love the burgundy sequined top I have mentionned earlier. The color works well with the green hue. Three black outfits closed the show. Extra fabric is flowing at the model’s side, following her movements. The pleats and drapés are very refined. Describing a Marni collection with words is not easy as designs are visually striking and speak for themselves. A work to remember for next season.
That’s it for now 🙂 There are many shows I want to watch today, so maybe a third part will pop before tonight, I don’t konw yet. So stay near !