Haute-Couture SS 2016 part I

Hi everyone 😀

The Haute-Couture Week SS 2016 took place in Paris this week. During four days we were presented the latest creations of great fashion houses we love. Here are the reviews of my favorite shows !

Schiaparelli

Tableware was the main invité at the Shiaparelli show. Bertrand Guyon kept in mind the idea of gathering with family and friend for a meal to realize this collection, an idea also dear to founder Elsa. Printed, embroidered or appliqués, dishes and porcelain took place on the long dresses. We even had the chance to see a lobster on a model’s chest. The very special iconography makes this work original and stand out. It is kind of unexpected to have it on long evening gowns, but the result is fresh and fun. It was highlighted by a large range of colors, from beige to khaki, with pops of blue and red. I really love the long flowing fabrics they’ve used : the dresses have a stunning icy blue shade and looks very soft and ethereal. The nude gown is pretty nice too, and they have added a sort of pannier, reminding the XIXth century fashion, with lace flowers. Tasteful.

Christian Dior

This was the first Couture collection since Raf Simons left the house in October. I think many of us, fashion lovers, were eagerly waiting to see the result. After the great Pre-Fall 2016 collection, I already felt reassured. And in my opinion, this Couture show is excellent as well. It follows the line Raf gave with his last ready-to-wear collection in October, with balloons sleeves, structured coars and the navy blue + white combo. Amazing tailoring, with carefully designed items like the camel and the printed coats. Some skirts, calf-lenght, are open on the side, letting one leg free. The outfits are more or less revealing : from the off shoulders top with a beautiful neckline on the first picture for instance, we went to an open jacket and then to a couple of lace dress. I like the way they’ve played with transparency on them, especially the first with a sheer top and flounces. The Dior elegance is definitely here, with strong silhouettes. Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux came on stage at the end of the show, presented as the head of the creative team. I don’t know what’s next at Dior, but the interim is assured.

Giambattista Valli

I am always impatient to see Mr Valli’s creations, and rarely disappointed. For summer, he once again spreads an ocean of flowers over us. He loves this theme, and he excels in making clothes with it. Short A-line dresses were adorned with big frills and sequined plants, highlighted by the white fabric. They are super cute, fresh and youthful. I have a soft spot for the long version worn by Kadri you can see on the 33rd image : the Empire cut, with a slightly extra volume around the waist and the hips, is very chic. the subtle transparency on the top brings lightness to the silhouette. He clearly used several techniques for the flowers, that is to say embroidery and appliqués. Then more lady-like gowns stepped on the runway, very graceful with nice drapés. Feminity and delicateness are the main words of his universe. Even the spectacular tulle plissé finale, which is mind blowing, seemed as light as a cloud.

 

xx

Emmanuelle

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