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This last Haute Couture post deals with duos of designers I am fond of : Viktor&Rolf and Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino. Their powerful creations close this PFW.
Viktor&Rolf conceptual designs are definitely intriguing. They always question the boundaries between fashion and fine art, and challenge established thoughts and definitions. I wrote about their FW15 Couture collection in July, a long post trying to figure out their take on clothing and the link with painting. But let’s take a closer look at their current show. I like the progression in their work (a common point with previous ones) : things begin softly with an eye placed on the model’s bust and discreet lines similar to a jaw, then shapes become more intricate. Accumulation of flounces, outline of faces slowly emerge, with a nose in profile and two different eyes seen full faced. Some faces rather look like a mask and volutes become a helmet. The show closed with two giant statues, towering higher than the models’ height, turning them into walking artworks. It kind of remind me of tikis and totems, with their long faces, but the concept clearly comes from cubist sculpture. As you know it mainly relies on destructured faces, not corresponding to a faithful representation of reality. However in this collection, they are still recognizable as such. It goes beyond the “wearable” and cast another light on Haute-Couture. And that why we like Viktor&Rolf so much.
Italian splendour shines again at the Valentino show. Floor-lenght gowns are as beautiful as ever, in this Roman fashion dear to the creative team. Each look is filled with a myriad of details, ornamentation is the key word. They have picked warm and rich colors, like golden yellow and vermillon. The soft white and ecru are very luminous and chic. Luxurious fabrics like velvet and silk mix into this collection with special techniques like embroidery. The green dress Irina wore is composed of velvet, cut and applied on a sheer basis. Many of the outfits were printed, with vegetal, arabesques designs, reminding old Antique patterns. The one-shoulder white dresses with the golden accessories placed on the bust could have been worn by ancient goddesses. These pretty jewels have been designed by Alessandro Gaggio and adorn the girls’ feet too : actually they are walking barefoot. Headpieces, which have became a regular item at Valentino, grace the models’ forehead. They have been custom-made by Harumi Klossowska and wave like a snake on their hair. I think what I like the most about Valentino is their see-through gowns. The last one is insanely gorgeous : I adore the shade and the way they have worked with tulle, light and ethereal. Another excellent collection 😉