Milan Fashion Week FW16 part II

Hi dear readers

We continue our Milan Fashion Week with two shows I was eagerly waiting for ! Are you ready for them ?

Jil Sander

Last season was a true coup de coeur. Rodolfo Paglialunga strikes again with a polished collection. He starts with a double-breast white coat, with large shoulders and more fitted at the waist, a classic that could rule over our wardrobes. The black ensemble is probably the easier to wear and I find the cut perfect. Then he shows us how to play with officewear and  basics like suits and white shirts. The funnel neck top clearly stands out and looks minimalist and precisely designed at the same time. I love how he’s folded his fabric under the model’s chest, it upgrades the outfit. The next one worn by Karlie has a similar concept, with material wrapped around her hips. The proportions are great and the silhouettes stay harmonious.

A total leather look comes on the runway and the collection goes bolder. New materials add textures and depth. We can state that light is a major actor. Indeed there was a sequined black dress and shining items, thanks to Lurex or glitter. The grey designs remind me of flowers and are embroidered on the garments. Silver surfaces appear, catch and reflect light. The coat is the best example and its clean design make it look very mineral and modern. With the last ensemble hitting the catwalk, the transition between office and night has officially been undertaken : it almost looks like a beautiful dress with its vintage cut and silvery sparkles. A solid work that leaves us thirsty for more.

Marni

Marni is the playground of Consuelo Castiglioni. Putting a label on her creations and her work in a case is not an easy task, but anyway I don’t think that would be meaningful. She leads a series of tests about boldness, colors, shapes and build a fantasy world with her own vocabulary.

She likes playing with volumes and proportions. Almost all of the outfits show balloon sleeves off. Some are wide around the forearms, like on the first three examples. She’s even added puffy cuffs coming out of the sleeves of the coats. I like the balance she’s created in the navy blue checked outfit : the waist is enhanced and the form of the sleeves “fill the gap”. Prints and colors go wild. The harlequin pattern will be remembered, it has so much character ! I find the Art Nouveau style of the two last looks truly splendid and elegant. This combination of strong colors and daring shapes makes Castiglioni’s designs very graphic, modern and playful. But the most extravagant thing of the show is without a doubt the plastic pastilles applied on the garments. The last coat even has pearls embroidered on it. Does it become something more than ready-to-wear ? Probably.

My favorite accessories at Marni are earrings. You need to see the detail pictures on Vogue.com. Worth taking a peek I promise 😉

Hope you liked the reviews 🙂 Milan doesn’t stop here, another post about it will come out !

 

xx

Emmanuelle

 

 

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