We end the Milaese Week with these three shows.
The Philosophy woman feels romantic and sexy for FW16. She mixes textures, plays with materials, pairs delicate lace with patent leather. The association is not new, but I find it well made and stunning. See-through silk and lace let us get a glimpse of the bodies underneath. The blouses are adorned with flounces, light and flowing. I love how they are placed on the item, sometimes it covers the chest but I have a soft spot for the first one, where they flutter at the sides. The red pants totally twist this blouse and makes the look wilder. Indeed the trousers have a nice cut, slightly oversize and worn high waisted. They look elegant and luxurious. Boots also play a major role in the styling, bringing something rock.
I like Lorenzo Serafini‘s take on feminity. Even if I do not usually dress like this, I think his outfits are coherent and fit a certain definition of modernity.
Ports 1961 is a new leader in the world of luxury ready-to-wear. Creative director Natasa Cagalj presented a collection filled with nostalgia, with hints from her past inspirations and icons as a young designer.
Tailoring is one of her predilections. However her suits are nothing ordinary. She deconstructs her classics and creates new shapes, with unexpected supplements of fabric. On the seventh outfit for instance, tulle flaps coming from the blouse worn underneath hang on the jacket, as it is cut out on the front. It totally changes its shape and the waist is hidden behind them. Other even have ribbons flying around the model. The deep purple suit is my favorite : I love the horizontal cut on the side and the shade.
The coats are beautiful. Oversize, they are special pieces that can give a fresh breath to your wardrobe. Wide lapels remind me of capes and thin bands of fabric can act as belts if you want to transform your coat. The ecru one is more classical but incredibly chic. A great work that settle the brand’s importance into the fashion sphere.
It is hard not to talk about the Dolce&Gabbana fashion show. It is probably the most anticipated presentation in Milan. The two Italian designers always delivers joyful collections in incredible settings.
There was so many looks (almost 100 !) and so many different prints, textures, materials … we cannot sum it up. Stefano and Domenico sent us to a fairytale world, thanks to their modern vision of our dear Disney princesses. Colorful dresses, girly and fresh, with big red flowers or cute mice illuminated the runway. Still we retrieved the signature black lace dress. It looked as ladylike and feminine as ever, with a close-fitting cut following the curves of the body. Ornamentation was flashy with glitters and embroideries representing items like mirrors, crowns … all we can find in childhood tales.
Matador style was present too, with heavily ornated jackets. Golden trimmings evoked richness and made a beautiful contrast with the black garments. Some of these outfits seemed more masculine but wore the same kind of adornment as the dresses. I loved the coats with their egg-like shape, that looked very vintage with the special headpieces.
The bags and minaudières are truly worth a look ! Dolce & Gabbana want to prove us dreaming is always possible with fashion, in many ways 😉
Now that Milan is over, we will turn to Paris as soon as tomorrow ! Stay near dear readers 🙂