The second part of my Paris Fashion Week reviews is finally here 🙂 Enjoy these two major shows !
“Teutonic”. Hussein Chalayan prepared a complex winter collection. Actually the first part is quite easy to grasp and read. Structured black and white outfits take over the runway. Coats look cosy and warm and their shape is definitely chic. We can see soft pleats on the front and extra volume around the elbows. Polished tailoring comes in, with modern cuts. The designer chooses leather as a main element : we retrieve this material as miniskirts and wide-leg trousers. A band of fabric is wrapped around the models’ waist. It gives the illusion of horizontal lines thanks to the folds and of a silhouette made of three sections. I fell head over heels in love with these outfits !
Things become wilder around the middle of the show. Long white dresses bring lightness and fluidity. They are printed with geometric patterns, reminding me of Kandinsky’s drawings. Others worn loose, like the blue dress and the red one (which is beaded with Swarovski crystals), are kind of intriguing. It seems these odd designs are related to German culture of the past decades. Backstage Chalayan talked about dashboards and digital era. Indeed the last looks were made of special fabrics and adorned with numeric data and German words. The ponytails worn as earrings add even more strangeness. This enigmatic twist makes the collection fall into deep thoughts and show fashion can go beyond “wearable”.
The Dior Lady looks dark and mysterious for FW6. She is an allegory of French elegance and sophistication. Her poised attitude oozes confidence.
Black suits open the show, announcing the seriousness of the collection. Slit pencils skirts give a glimpse of the thigh. The jackets are sharply structured, thus appear contemporary. Asymmetry becomes a statement : one shoulder is let free to make the outfits even more glamorous. This signature look of the brand shines once more here. I love the black embellished mini dress, it is cute and very femme fatale at the same time. Tailoring spirit dominates the whole show and comes to life through several forms, like coats and dresses. Designers also deal with volumes : balloon sleeves bring something interesting to silhouettes. The orange sweater settles the comeback of knitwear and stand out with this vibrant shade. The heavy brown jacket is very large. The material and off-shoulder cut cast the attention on the upper part of the bust. I think it brings a more casual element than classic tailoring and mixes really well with the skirt. The lines of this collection are simply beautiful. The last outfits are the best examples in my opinion, to show their purity. The drapé effect of the collar of the dress is stunning and I love the way it ends with a bell shape. The souvenir of the Corolle line lingers in the white coat. It follows the body by enhancing the waistline. The famous Bar suit was also revisited. The double-breast coat, with black buttons matching the shirt underneath to create contrast, has a different cut. It is more masculine and oversize, but the revealed shoulder brings feminity. The floral print dear to Christian and Raf keeps brightening up the garments.
Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux still holds the reins of the creative team and I think they do a pretty good job. The essential element are here and we feel they master them perfectly. I wanted to add how much I love the beauty look. Girls had hair parted on the side with two little chignons worn low and a beautiful make up by Peter Philips. The dark cherry lips, as well as the multiple earrings, give a goth and rebel vibe but still look chic.
That’s it for the second part 🙂 Stay near to see what’s next !