Paris Fashion Week FW16 part III

Hey dear readers !

The third part of my collection reviews is here 🙂

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe‘s designs obviously do not fit into the “ready to wear” category. The collection he presented acts more like a study about forms and volumes. An exercise of style – and mathematics.

He takes his inspiration from origami, the art of folding paper. Here the clothes are made of neoprene, this technical fabric very popular these past years. As it is rather rigid, it opens many possibilities to create daring outfits. If you observe the costumes, you can notice how circular sections are associated and sewn together. It plays on roundness, softness and dresses the silhouette in a nice way. Skirts and dresses are molded to create 3D domes. The second picture shows this well, and I must say it is quite impressive. Heavy headpieces hide the models’ face, still using geometry’s vocabulary. Besides this, the girls wear black legging and basic tops, so nothing can distract us from the main elements.

The designer worked with few colors : black, grey, red and fuschia. The strong contrast between red and black make the outfits visually striking. It adds another kind of depth. Art for Art’s sake, purity of the lines and strucures are at the heart of this show. And we love when fashion ventures to such extents.

Balenciaga

One of the most anticipated collection of the season is finally here ! Alexander Wang left after SS2016, and the revelation of his successor caused excitement in the fashion sphere : Demna Gvasalia the guru from Vetements. Expectations were high, and I think he proudly fulfilled them.

He starts with tailoring. He wanted to keep it as a major element : he studied Cristobal’s legacy and tastes linger. However, he doesn’t give up on his freedom and freshness. The suits are padded around the hips, fitted at the waist, confering an odd but pleasant aura to the body. The coats are the stars of the show in my opinion. All sorts enter the runway : a fabulous beige trench, long wool coats, sheepskin, down jackets … What is interesting is how he translated them : he pushed back the necklines to make off-shoulders versions. It gives a laid-back appearance, a casual attutide but extremely sophisticated at the same time. The trench have never looked so glamorous, and it works perfectly well with the leather coat too. Even the padded jackets become chic. The outfit with the quilted scarf paired with a long, voluminous coat is an amazing demonstration of Gvasalia’s talent,  He also masters layering. I love the silhouette with a half-tuck in shirt under a red sweater and a pencil skirt.

He has not been shy about prints and colors. Even if we starts with a base of grey, electric blue, red and camel elevate the collection. Checks and flowers adorn the clothes. The latters are a bit messy, as several bands of different fabric clashes. They are associated with candy tights, a mischievous choice. In any case I feel captivated and already yearning for more.

Hope you liked it, see you for the next part 😉 !

xx

Emmanuelle

 

 

 

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3 thoughts on “Paris Fashion Week FW16 part III

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