Paris Fashion Week FW16 part IV

Hi how are you ?

The Parisian marathon was tough ! The Fashion Week ends today but there are still more reviews to come 🙂

Maison Rabih Kayrouz

I’ve always pictured Maison Rabih Kayrouz‘s style as beautiful but very classic. Seems like I was wrong. This season we meet original couture outfits.

Statement jackets make their entrance on the runway. It gives the impression that the models didn’t slip into them, as the back of the collar is placed on the bust. I think this is a pleasant and original surprise. These suits also have false pockets. Another outstanding piece is the jacket worn down. Actually the whole silhouette looks amazing. What is interesting is that the jacket loses its first function and acts as a peplum. It seems fitted at the waist and two buttons fasten it. Only the forearms are covered. Paired with this long, flowing bottom, the result is incredibly elegant. More classical outfits are composed of long coats with only one lapel, and cosy knitwear. Maxi dresses are a must-see at Rabih Kayrouz. Pleats, transparency are the main words. The red gown looks extremely polished. I love the mix between sheer and opaque on the last image.

Glistening fabrics illuminate the show. Green, red and blue , with floral and abstract prints flourish on the clothes. The fluid bouse has large sleeves and the wide-legs trousers give a masculine twist to the outfit. I am fond of the way this style was treated here. Gorgeous collection !

Céline

That’s the Phoebe Philo I admire. Her clean yet sophisticated aesthetic feels unique and shows a lot of character. Lines and cuts look simple but have a real visual impact.

Heavy material look like they have been carefully thrown on the model’s frame. The border of the orange knitwear makes it resemble a blanket, like if dressing with what’s at your reach is the new cool thing. A genuine leson of effortless style. The black and wite coats look super cosy and fluffy. A sort of cape covers the shoulders. Rigid fabrics are used for rain coats and tops. The girls wear several layers, thus complex outfits. I love the arrangement of the latter, where you can see the different fabrics and the proportions. Something carefully thought and styled together. Some outfits are easier to read, with only a shirt and fluid trousers. I have a soft spot the look Marie wears. The tunic is wrapped around her bust, enhancing her waistline. The wide-legs trousers create a opposition and the result is very nice.

Phoebe and her team propose a beautiful palette. These warm shades, from ecru to orange with camel in between, remind me of the sand. We even find oasis : hints of blue are revealed through the show, this sky blue being the softest. Currently yearning for a desertic area to wear those.

Stella McCartney

Stella never disappoint. She proves once again conscious fashion can rock. So for next winter, prepare for padded coats to keep you warm. The velvet version is surprising but it works and renews it. I am ot a fan of this kind of coats usually, but I must admit this version is super chic ! She also made padded shorts as you can see in the second picture.

Fabrics mix and match : satin top with woolen blazer, velvet … Stella makes a great job at pairing them together. She gives a make over to delicate slip dresses : pleats, tulle and lace combine. The central part reminds me of a butterfly, and this form flatters the silhouette. I love the elegance of velvet trousers and  flowing blouses, like on the outfit before the last. Cosy knitwears make us want to cuddle into them. The designer proposes several sweater dresses. The pink one is so cute, the shade really acts as a fresh pop of color in this collection rather dark. Feel free to add whatever you want underneath, tights or skirts to layer. And the fluider the better. Clothes must move along your gait.

A notable trait is the presence of flounces : they develop on the bust, even give the illusion of a new neckline. I think it instantely gives a sweet, ingenuous side but the garments stay modern, feminine and chic. Rare but playful prints adorn them : swans take over grey flannel. Cuteness and style can merge, right ?

 

The next (and last ?) part will come as soon as possible. Hope you liked these shows as much as I did !

xx

Emmanuelle

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