Paris Fashion Week FW16 part V

Hello dear readers !

Finally the fifth and last post about Paris Fashion Week is here 🙂 The level stayed high until the very end and I am glad to write about these three shows !

Off-White

I didn’t know this brand until now and -oh my God -, I feel like I’ve missed something big. Vigil Abloh is the designer behind the brand and let’s say we share the same tastes when it comes to clothes 🙂 .

He presents a series of cool streetwear, with casual turtlenecks and masculine trousers. The cool tomboyish vibe is settled. He demonstrates his mastery of composition, and therefore deconstruction. Classic wool coats are worn in a different way. The red is fastened on the side so the arm and half of the bust are uncovered. One shoulder is let free with the black coat, something we already saw a lot this season. The blue and yellow denim jacket in the stands out because of its edgy appearance : two are needed to make it and the way he cut through them has nothing classic. He also plays the card of oversize. The ecru sweater is voluminous and full of details, with fringes and cable-knit lines. Some trousers are wide and totally hide the legs.

The outfit with the crop top and skirt is one of my favorite silhouette of this whole season. The leather bustier perfectly fits the model. The shape is nice and I love its association with the high-waisted bottom. Indeed, he chooses a skirt made of a square piece of natural fibers, probably linen, and a pleated silk underneath, fluttering on the sides. The contrast between these two layers, one rigid and opaque and the other lighter and sheer make the outfit more complex and takes it to the next level. The mix of material is very pleasant. The long coat looks amazing too, it highlights the quality of the leather. Off-White is a marvellous find I will surely keep an eye on 😉

Vanessa Seward

Vanessa Seward is another designer I didn’t know about (so sorry !). I discovered her with this collection and it seduced me in a blink of an eye thanks to its feminine garments.

A notable point is how they elongate the silhouette. Most of them reach calf-lenght and I find it extremely ladylike. The close-fitting, tube cut gently underlines the body. The suede pieces look sophisticated. The red dress worn over the fluid blouse seems of great quality, light and pleasant to wear, an original way to complete an outfit. The camel coat is a must-have, the shade is beautiful. The jumpsuit caught my attention too. I am a fan of its versatility, it works really well with high heels and glitter accessories, but it will look nice with something more casual like trainers and a backpack. Sometimes, the styling breaks the verticality of the outfits: a belt with a fanny pack is tied around the waist, thus creating an horizontal line.

The last three looks are without a doubt my favorites. The designer presents several versions of the suit. The first reminds me of the kimono, with its simple form and large sleeves. The satined bands indicate its evening status. Then night blue velvet comes : this soft fabric looks luxurious and I like how it is paired with a see-through blouse. The lenght of the trousers falls perfectly well. The last one is composed of a classic jacket and a pair of wide-leg culottes. The small bow tie is a nice addition to make the outfits boyish and fun. A delicate veil sparkles on the models’ face. I end with the shot of the finale because I adore seeing the models and designers smiling ! Only good vibes from this show 🙂

Valentino

Valentino is the show I am waiting for each season. Actually I think this collection felt quite different from what we use to see. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli‘s presentation opened with black and white outfits, showing off a skillful layering. Shirts, turtlenecks and dresses mix up, covered by beautiful oversize coats and capes. Knitwear plays a major role. They insist on the practical side, on clothes easy to wear on a daily basis.

However my heart goes to their signature see-through gowns. For FW16, they drew inspiration from the ballet. This thematic lends itself to lightness. Models compare to ballerinas in leotard and tutu. Round, deep necklines free the chest. The eighth and last picture are the best examples and these dresses would fit a soloist performing on the opera stage. Their cut is rather simple, with flounces of silk and tulle fluttering around the body, ethereal and pure. The designers didn’t forget about embellishments. Clouds materialize through soft lines, geometrical patterns adorn fabric, sequins reflect light.

The mood was definitely calling for softness. The palette was reduced to black and nudes, dusty pink and beiges. Hints of mustard, khaki and burgundy match the autumn shades. Baby blue and mint stand for sweetness and heavenly aura. The enchanting world of Valentino never stops haunting us, for the best.

 

The Fashion Week reviews for FW16 are now over. That was a great season, with many good discoveries and cool trends. I’ve spotted a couple of interesting ideas I will steal as soon as possible. Flounces and ruffles are still in. What I preferred is without a doubt the way shoulders and collarbone are highlighted, as I said in the Off-White and Dior reviews. Wearing coats down like this is extremely chic I think.

What do you think about this season dear readers ? Which is your favorite show ? Let me know in the comments 😉

 

xx

Emmanuelle

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