New-York Fashion Week SS17 part II

Vera Wang

The NY-based designer is never shy when it comes to unusual cuts. Seems like she decided to give off-shoulders a rebirth. In September, the trend starts to fade away but should come back by spring. The effect is enhanced by a very low cut, revealing the chest and the top of the arm more then before.  The stylists have added a white tank underneath on some looks. Shirts and bomber jackets were also seen on the runway. Extra long sleeves hide the models’ hands, sometimes extending past the knees. They tend to be voluminous around the elbow. These details really impact the silhouette, as the eye is drawn to the bust. The fitted jacket of the picture 41 is one of my favorite items. I love how it clings to the model’s body and the lightness of the sleeves. The girls mostly wear shorts, or maxi skirts. The first have a little boyish, cheeky twist, whereas the skirts look more refined.

She does black and white really well. She plays with transparency as well, with large mesh t-shirts, and shimmery materials. We are used to see Vera focusing on fabrics and drapés, but here she brought up a special embellishment : pearls. They are embroidered on see-through garments. The size varies, and they form a scattering. I prefer the white on white version, even if the contrast with the black fabric is relevant. Proof that chic and cool still has bright days ahead.

Camilla and Marc

The duo proposes another polished collection, with a sharp styling. Office wear is anything but average. I love the sleeveless, double breasted jacket. The lenght stops at the knee. This item is truly versatile and lends itself to layering : you can wear it on trousers or culottes, and like in the fifth image, you can add a classic blazer, fitted at the waist. The cream one is shown simply as a dress and looks amazing.

Indeed dresses are a major part of the presentation. From casual chic to more sophisticated, you will surely find your treasure. Simple white dresses, rather close-fitting, show a beautiful cut. The lines of the décolleté looks chic, with the fabric slightly pushed back on the shoulders. Flowers grace silky dresses : I have a soft spot for the seventh. Tied around the neck, with open-shoulders, I like its fluidity. The light floral print used from the 14th to the 17th outfits look very pretty and romantic as well. You will also come across lace gowns. The first one is stunning, made of delicate black lace, with navy blue textured patterns. Finally, the collection closes with black dresses. The flounces, running from the shoulder to the hemline, ending with a slit, make it ultra glamorous.

Delpozo

Josep Font can’t stop making me smile. His approach of fashion casts a breath of fresh air in the NYFW. Through the seasons, he always comes up with new ideas, an oversize frill on the top or an unexpected folding on a skirt. These odd shapes are his signature, and burst as soon as the first outfit hit the runway. Clusters of cristals hanging down her ears, Klementyna wears a cropped shirt with two rectangular panels on the front. They are fold on the top, to create curves contrasting with the straight lines on the bottom. The wide-leg pants enhance the waistline. He cares a lot about the architecture of the outfits he composes, playing with lines, proportions … I am fond of the cuffs of the pink coat for instance, and of a myriad of other details. The lavender top in the 26th shot looks marvelous, incredibly chic.

These bold designs are paired with bright and sweet colors. Pops of fuschia and orange warm the mood, but he used mostly cold hues like white, icy blue, grey, light green. For instance the 28th look evokes softness thanks to its pastel shades and its ethereal fabric arranged into flounces. The whole show is all about delicateness. Of course he doesn’t forget to place some blue, flower-shaped embellishments on some white pieces.

I think he is one of the rare designer we can call original. The fantasy he offers is worth a million. Forever grateful.

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