Like many of his peers, Rodolfo Paglialunga’s show was all about broad shoulders. He combines it to the clean Jil Sander’s vocabulary. The first looks hitting the runway are thin striped suits. Tailoring is upgraded thanks to removable shoulders pads. Thus the silhouette is similar to a reversed triangle shape, in a masculine spirit. A vast majority of skirts falls below the knee, and the short culottes enhance the boyish side.
On the other side, you have a series of feminine dresses, in fresh hues like yellow or blue, made of a light, pleated fabric reminding Issey Miyake’s finely crafted creations. The work on this thin pleats seems very precise, like a rose. The oversize, sometimes gigot sleeves once more bring the attention to the upper part of the body.
Paglialunga used shimmering materials to play with light, mostly for simple but structured outfits. No over-decorating allows him to stay faithful to the house’s mantra, minimalism. Pops of color highlight the classic, low-key palette. Warm sand shades and orange steal the show : leather pieces cannot be missed. The flamboyant leather jackets are definitely statement items. A nice collection if you feel ready to wear remarkable clothing.
Consuelo Castiglioni keeps her line clear : breathing life into her conceptual designs, a combination of well-cut pieces to create a strong visual impact. Complexity comes from the sharpness of her lines and the great styling associating the elements together. The girls wear loose-fitting tops, zipped at the front or jackets with wide lapels. Large belts sometimes mark the waist, but the statement accessories are obviously the poacher-pockets bags adding extra volume on the hips.
Pleats make their entrance with the eighth outfit : ethereal and light, these flowing dresses reveal more skin, even a bare arm. The fabric seems to have been meticulously folded, billowing on the waist. Fluidity is controlled. They come in various floral prints, then the color scheme goes bolder with bright red, bleu roi … organised in monochromatic outfits.
The presentation closes with two black dresses composed of horizontal panels. We can clearly see the way they are made; some bands are even opened vertically, giving us a glimpse on the model’s legs. Single or mismatched earrings are also displayed like her signature. Castiglioni is not afraid to “build” this kind of silhouettes – the whole thing looking, of course, effortless.