Paris Fashion Week SS17 part I

Rochas

After his oxymoronic show in Milan, Alessandro Dell’Acqua twists ladylike codes in his latest Rochas collection – in another manner : massive platforms go hand in hand with delicate dresses, instead of the expected thin heels. Satined fabrics offer a range of bright hues : orange, lilac, Myosotis blue, yellow, deep green … They all mix together thanks to layers of tulle and plumetis, incredibly romantic. The drapés on the bust are stunning. The elbow-lenght gloves add fantasy because they are knitted, which looks more casual. The girl we see in the third shot only wears one as she sports a dress covering her right arm (a shape we will find several times). Skirts can be paired with cool cardigans.

Actually the brownish dress in the 14th shot reminds me a lot of the flouncy top we saw at No.21 : we have similar shade and details. The satiny fabrics play with light and give a nice glow to the whole outfit. The forest green dress in the 17th picture is without a doubt my favorite. Not only the shade is beautiful, but I love the transparency on the legs.

The second half of the presentation is more about blue, black and white. He uses the same materials : plumetis has never looked so good in his hands. The cuts are more intricate. The brown trench is worn down on the elbows so we see the sweater. The 28th dress looks definitely feminime, with flowing sleeves and black tulle covering the décolleté. To me it feels like a superb work, better than No.21.

Jacquemus

What an amazing show … It feels kind of different than his previous collections. No references to abstract painting, nor overly deconstructed items. Simon tells us a story inscribed in time and space, taking us to the South of France where he was born twenty-six years ago. The models wear clothes reminding me of traditional costumes, but totally revamped through his prism, so we retrieve his vocabulary with bold shapes. Subdued colors are used : white, grey, navy blue, mostly, and even brown. Pops of red bloom on several pieces. The whole accessorized with wide-brimmed straw boaters to settle the show in Provence.

The emphasis is put on the upper part of the body : indeed many outfits are composed of oversize sleeves, in all forms possible : gigot-sleeves on the 12th or 16th outfits, extra large shoulders on the 22th and 32th looks, triangle shape on the 24th … I was really impressed by the suits, for which I have trouble finding the right words. He is not afraid to play with proportions and create unsual, disturbed silhouettes. The long coat Marie and Phillipa show is a stunning piece, very easy to wear. I also have a soft spot for the tops of the 6th and 28th looks. The twentieth has a vibe from his usual style, like a geometrical red shape applied on the waist.

Simon’s work looks less “naive” and playful this time, it feels more “grown-up”. It certainly markes a turning point in his career, promising a bright future ahead for fashion.

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